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Saint-Germain-des-Pres

Paris's Rebel Quarter

ebook
0 of 1 copy available
Wait time: About 2 weeks
0 of 1 copy available
Wait time: About 2 weeks

From the bestselling author of The Most Beautiful Walk in the World comes this first book in an exciting new series of narrative "biographies" of Paris's great neighborhoods, beginning with Saint-Germain-des-Pres—the city's "rebel quarter," for centuries a center of artistic, intellectual, and revolutionary activity and home to some of Paris's most iconic cafes and shops.

For many years, Saint-Germain-des-Pres has been a stronghold of sans culottes, a refuge to artists, a paradise for bohemians. It's where Marat printed L'Ami du Peuple and Thomas Paine wrote The Rights of Man. Napoleon, Hemingway, and Sartre have all called it home. Descartes is buried there. Now bestselling author and Paris expert, John Baxter takes readers and travelers on a narrative tour of Saint-Germain-des-Pres, which is also where Baxter makes his home.

Tucked along the shores of the Left Bank, Saint-Germain-des-Pres embodies so much of what makes Paris special. Its cobblestone streets and ancient facades survive to this day, spared from modernization thanks to a quirk in their construction. Traditionally cheap rents attracted outsiders and political dissidents from the days of Robespierre to the student revolts of the 1960s. And its intellectual pedigree boasts such luminaries as Pablo Picasso, Arthur Rimbaud, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Simone de Beauvoir, Gertrude Stein, and Albert Camus. Baxter reveals all, guiding readers to the cafes, gardens, shops, and monuments that bring this hidden history to life.

Part-history, part-guidebook, Saint-Germain-des-Pres is a fresh look at one of the City of Light's most iconic quarters, and a delight for new tourists and Paris veterans alike.

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    • Kirkus

      Baxter (Hemingway's Paris: A User's Guide, 2016, etc.) provides another delightful salute to Paris.Born in Australia, the author first traveled to Paris in 1969. Now married with a daughter, he lives in Saint-Germain-des-Pres village. The area managed to avoid much of Baron Haussmann's destructive urban renewal, which leaves it with lots of quaint corners filled with shops and fascinating history. As a Paris walking guide, the author delights with anecdotes both historical and current. He takes us through the Cour de Rohan and the Cour du Commerce Saint-Andre, making even seasoned travelers feel as if no one else knew of their existence. Baxter notes that publisher Jean-Paul Marat's print shop was at No. 8, while at No. 6, Dr. Joseph-Ignace Guillotin perfected his killing device, "on which hundreds would die until France abandoned capital punishment in 1981." Among other highlights in the area are chocolatier Debauve, which embossed Marie Antoinette's sweets with gold; the 18th-century restaurant and salon Prives La Perouse; Miss Betty's Brothel; and the unnamed "beat hotel" that "attracted some significant literary figures of the postwar era." The author doesn't just note the best places to eat; he differentiates between a brasserie and a bistro and informs us what to eat where. For fans of the bohemian life and 1920s lost generation stars, there are numerous spots to seek out, including the trails of stars like Hemingway, Gertrude Stein, Isadora Duncan, and her even stranger brother, Raymond. As in previous books, the author makes readers feel as they are returning to a familiar, comfortable spot in the company of good friends. Whether you're planning your first trip to Paris or absolutely have to stop in Paris on your way anywhere, this book, in addition to the author's previous guides, is essential. COPYRIGHT(1) Kirkus Reviews, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

    • Booklist

      September 15, 2016
      In the first book in a planned series of biographies of Paris neighborhoods, Baxter (Five Nights in Paris, 2015; and many others) waxes on about the village he calls home, the small yet storied section of Paris' Left Bank known as Saint-Germain-des-Pres. Also home, at points present and past, to revolutionaries, writers, artists, students, and bohemians, Saint-Germain's story, in Baxter's able hands, spans centuries and often hops its own borders. Readers will surely enjoy the leaps, for the destination here really is the diversion. Starting each short chapter with a carefully chosen quote and including photos and shaded, guide-like profiles and called-out passages that break up the already zippy text, Baxter writes his book like he might direct the literary walking tours of Paris he's also known for. Although this book's most fortunate readers will undoubtedly be those who will soon be toting it in the City of Lights, those with no travel plans at all will still count themselves lucky to be in the company of such an engaging Paris pro.(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2016, American Library Association.)

    • Kirkus

      Starred review from September 1, 2016
      Baxter (Hemingway's Paris: A User's Guide, 2016, etc.) provides another delightful salute to Paris.Born in Australia, the author first traveled to Paris in 1969. Now married with a daughter, he lives in Saint-Germain-des-Pres village. The area managed to avoid much of Baron Haussmann's destructive urban renewal, which leaves it with lots of quaint corners filled with shops and fascinating history. As a Paris walking guide, the author delights with anecdotes both historical and current. He takes us through the Cour de Rohan and the Cour du Commerce Saint-Andre, making even seasoned travelers feel as if no one else knew of their existence. Baxter notes that publisher Jean-Paul Marat's print shop was at No. 8, while at No. 6, Dr. Joseph-Ignace Guillotin perfected his killing device, "on which hundreds would die until France abandoned capital punishment in 1981." Among other highlights in the area are chocolatier Debauve, which embossed Marie Antoinette's sweets with gold; the 18th-century restaurant and salon Prives La Perouse; Miss Betty's Brothel; and the unnamed "beat hotel" that "attracted some significant literary figures of the postwar era." The author doesn't just note the best places to eat; he differentiates between a brasserie and a bistro and informs us what to eat where. For fans of the bohemian life and 1920s lost generation stars, there are numerous spots to seek out, including the trails of stars like Hemingway, Gertrude Stein, Isadora Duncan, and her even stranger brother, Raymond. As in previous books, the author makes readers feel as they are returning to a familiar, comfortable spot in the company of good friends. Whether you're planning your first trip to Paris or absolutely have to stop in Paris on your way anywhere, this book, in addition to the author's previous guides, is essential.

      COPYRIGHT(2016) Kirkus Reviews, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

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